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Thursday, 4 August 2011

Make a solar cell in your kitchen

 dvbot     00:47     free energy, kitchen, semiconductor, silicone, solar     No comments   

A solar cell is a device for converting energy from the sun into electricity. The high-efficiency solar cells you can buy at Radio Shack and other stores are made from highly processed silicon, and require huge factories, high temperatures, vacuum equipment, and lots of money.
If we are willing to sacrifice efficiency for the ability to make our own solar cells in the kitchen out of materials from the neighborhood hardware store, we can demonstrate a working solar cell in about an hour.


Our solar cell is made from cuprous oxide instead of silicon. Cuprous oxide is one of the first materials known to display the photoelectric effect, in which light causes electricity to flow in a material.
Thinking about how to explain the photoelectric effect is what led Albert Einstein to the Nobel prize for physics, and to the theory of relativity.


Materials you will need

The solar cell is made from these materials:
  1. A sheet of copper flashing from the hardware store. This normally costs about $5.00 per square foot. We will need about half a square foot.
  2. Two alligator clip leads.
  3. A sensitive micro-ammeter that can read currents between 10 and 50 microamperes. Radio Shack sells small LCD multimeters that will do, but I used a small surplus meter with a needle.
  4. An electric stove. My kitchen stove is gas, so I bought a small one-burner electric hotplate for about $25. The little 700 watt burners probably won't work -- mine is 1100 watts, so the burner gets red hot.
  5. A large clear plastic bottle off of which you can cut the top. I used a 2 liter spring water bottle. A large mouth glass jar will also work.
  6. Table salt. We will want a couple tablespoons of salt.
  7. Tap water.
  8. Sand paper or a wire brush on an electric drill.
  9. Sheet metal shears for cutting the copper sheet.



How to build the solar cell

My burner looks like this:
Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

The first step is to cut a piece of the copper sheeting that is about the size of the burner on the stove. Wash your hands so they don't have any grease or oil on them. Then wash the copper sheet with soap or cleanser to get any oil or grease off of it. Use the sandpaper or wire brush to thoroughly clean the copper sheeting, so that any sulphide or other light corrosion is removed.

Next, place the cleaned and dried copper sheet on the burner and turn the burner to its highest setting.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

As the copper starts to heat up, you will see beautiful oxidation patterns begin to form. Oranges, purples, and reds will cover the copper.


Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

As the copper gets hotter, the colors are replaced with a black coating of cupric oxide. This is not the oxide we want, but it will flake off later, showing the reds, oranges, pinks, and purples of the cuprous oxide layer underneath.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

The last bits of color disappear as the burner starts to glow red.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

When the burner is glowing red-hot, the sheet of copper will be coated with a black cupric oxide coat. Let it cook for a half an hour, so the black coating will be thick. This is important, since a thick coating will flake off nicely, while a thin coat will stay stuck to the copper.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

After the half hour of cooking, turn off the burner. Leave the hot copper on the burner to cool slowly. If you cool it too quickly, the black oxide will stay stuck to the copper.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

As the copper cools, it shrinks. The black cupric oxide also shrinks. But they shrink at different rates, which makes the black cupric oxide flake off.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

The little black flakes pop off the copper with enough force to make them fly a few inches. This means a little more cleaning effort around the stove, but it is fun to watch.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

When the copper has cooled to room temperature (this takes about 20 minutes), most of the black oxide will be gone. A light scrubbing with your hands under running water will remove most of the small bits. Resist the temptation to remove all of the black spots by hard scrubbing or by flexing the soft copper. This might damage the delicate red cuprous oxide layer we need to make to solar cell work.

The rest of the assembly is very simple and quick.
Cut another sheet of copper about the same size as the first one. Bend both pieces gently, so they will fit into the plastic bottle or jar without touching one another. The cuprous oxide coating that was facing up on the burner is usually the best side to face outwards in the jar, because it has the smoothest, cleanest surface.
Attach the two alligator clip leads, one to the new copper plate, and one to the cuprous oxide coated plate. Connect the lead from the clean copper plate to the positive terminal of the meter. Connect the lead from the cuprous oxide plate to the negative terminal of the meter.
Now mix a couple tablespoons of salt into some hot tap water. Stir the saltwater until all the salt is dissolved. Then carefully pour the saltwater into the jar, being careful not to get the clip leads wet. The saltwater should not completely cover the plates -- you should leave about an inch of plate above the water, so you can move the solar cell around without getting the clip leads wet.

Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

The photo above shows the solar cell in my shadow as I took the picture. Notice that the meter is reading about 6 microamps of current.
The solar cell is a battery, even in the dark, and will usually show a few microamps of current.


Make a solar cell in your kitchen lifestyle-facts.blogspot.com

The above photo shows the solar cell in the sunshine. Notice that the meter has jumped up to about 33 microamps of current. Sometimes it will go over 50 microamps, swinging the needle all the way over to the right.


How does it do that?


Cuprous oxide is a type of material called a semiconductor. A semiconductor is in between a conductor, where electricity can flow freely, and an insulator, where electrons are bound tightly to their atoms and do not flow freely.
In a semiconductor, there is a gap, called a bandgap between the electrons that are bound tightly to the atom, and the electrons that are farther from the atom, which can move freely and conduct electricity.
Electrons cannot stay inside the bandgap. An electron cannot gain just a little bit of energy and move away from the atom's nucleus into the bandgap. An electron must gain enough energy to move farther away from the nucleus, outside of the bandgap.
Similarly, an electron outside the bandgap cannot lose a little bit of energy and fall just a little bit closer to the nucleus. It must lose enough energy to fall past the bandgap into the area where electrons are allowed.
When sunlight hits the electrons in the cuprous oxide, some of the electrons gain enough energy from the sunlight to jump past the bandgap and become free to conduct electricity.
The free electrons move into the saltwater, then into the clean copper plate, into the wire, through the meter, and back to the cuprous oxide plate.
As the electrons move through the meter, they perform the work needed to move the needle. When a shadow falls on the solar cell, fewer electrons move through the meter, and the needle dips back down.

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How to make the simplest electric motor - 2

 dvbot     00:45     battery, cell, diy, easy, electric, motor, project, simple     No comments   





Making a simple Motor out of an alkaline cell, neodymium disk magnet, copper wire and a drywall screw.





You have one drywall screw, one 1.5 V alkaline cell, six inches of plain copper wire, one small neodymium disk magnet, and no other tools or supplies. You have 30 seconds to make an electric motor running in excess of ten thousand RPM. Can you do it? Surprisingly enough, you can.

Let's take a step back. The most common type of electric motor is the brushed dc electric motor. This is the kind that you'll find inside essentially everything that moves (or shakes) and runs on batteries. This type of motor attracts an electromagnet towards a permanent magnet. When the two are close enough,the polarity of the current through the electromagnet is reversed, so that it now repels the permanent magnet, and thus keeps turning. It's quite easy to build a working model; Christian built this example for his third-grade science project. A simpler yet motor (sometimes sold as the sold as the "world's simplest motor") just switches off the current for half of the cycle, letting the angular momentum of the spinning motor armature carry it through.

None of these is really the simplest motor. The real champion is the homopolar motor.
Ready to build one? Let's get started:

The ingredients (L-R): One ferromagnetic screw, one battery cell, a few inches of copper wire, and a neodymium disk magnet. I used a drywall screw both because it has a flat head and because it's easy to tell when it's turning. You can use a nail instead. The battery needn't be any particular type; an alkaline C-cell works fine and is easy to hold. Just about any copper wire will work fine for this application. I used some wire with partially stripped (and partially striped) red insulation that is easy to see in the photos. Bare copper will work just as well.
The magnet came from an LED throwie with a dead battery. The best magnets for this job are neodymium disc magnets with a conductive plating. You can get them from plastic toys or buy them from a number of magnet discount and surplus shops.

Homopolar - 2.jpg
Set the screw on the magnet, bend the wire.

Homopolar - 3.jpg
Attach the magnet to one end of the battery. The weak, single-point contact that you are making serves as an low-friction bearing. I like to attach it to the button end, but the other end will work as well. (If you do so, the motor will spin the opposite direction. You can also reverse the direction by flipping the magnet up side down.) (Note to physics geeks: The heavier your magnet plus screw system is, the lower the friction will be, right up to the point that magnet isn't strong enough to hold them any more. This is because the friction force is proportional to the normal force. In other words, a bigger magnet is usually better.)


Homopolar - 4.jpg
Press and hold the top end of the wire to the top end of the battery, making an electrical connection from the top battery end to the wire.

Homopolar - 5.jpg

Here we go: Lightly touch the free end of the wire to the side of the magnet. The magnet and screw start to spin immediately. We can get ours up to 10,000 RPM in about fifteen seconds. Watch out: The screw and magnet can easily fly out of control, and you do not want that screw ending up in your eye. Also note that some of the components, like the wire, can get very warm while you're doing this. Wear safety glasses and use common sense!
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A motor in 10 minutes

 dvbot     00:44     150W, 2N3055, amplifier, girlfriend, moon, project, relationship, semiconductor, silicone, simple, transistor, working with relations     No comments   

Back in the 1960's my father taught me how to make the little electric motor we will make here. Sometime in the 1980's I saw a description of it in the magazine "Physics Teacher". Lately I have seen it described as Beakman's motor, after the science oriented TV show on which it recently appeared.



The motor is simply a battery, a magnet, and a small coil of wire you make yourself. There is a secret to making it (which I will of course share with you) which is at the same time clever and delightfully simple.

What you will need:
    • A battery holder, such as Radio Shack #270-402 (holds a "C" cell) or #270-403 (holds a "D" cell).
    • A battery to fit the holder.
    • A magnet such as Radio Shack #64-1877, #64-1895, #64-1883, #64-1879, or #64-1888.
    • Some magnet wire such as Radio Shack #278-1345. We want enamel coated 22 gauge (or thicker) wire. We will only need about a yard of wire, so the Radio Shack package will make a dozen motors or more.
    • Some heavier wire such as Radio Shack #278-1217 or #278-1216. We want bare wire of 18 or 20 gauge, so we will be removing the plastic insulation from the wires listed above. We will need less than a foot of this wire per motor.

A quicky motor


We start by winding the armature, the part of the motor that moves. To make the armature nice and round, we wind it on a cylindrical coil form, such as a ball point pen or a small AAA battery. The diameter is not critical, but should be related to the wire size. Thin wire requires a small form, thick wire requires a larger form.

Leaving a couple of inches of wire free at one end, wind 25 or 30 turns arounf the coil form. Don't try to be neat, a little randomness will help the bundle keep its shape better. The coil will end up looking like the photo below:


Now carefully pull the coil off of the form, holding the wire so it doesn't spring out of shape.

To make the coil hold its shape permanently, we will wrap each free end of the wire around the coil a couple of times, making sure that the new binding turns are exactly opposite each other, so the coil can turn easily on the axis formed by the two free ends of wire, like a wheel.


It is not necessary, but I usually wrap a couple turns around these binding turns as well, threading the wire into the space between the large coil and the small coils that hold it together. This makes for a neat, tight package, as in the photo below:


If this method of holding the coil together is too difficult, feel free to use scotch tape or electrical tape to do the job. The important thing is to keep the coil together, and to have the two ends of the wire anchored well, and aligned in a straight line, so they form a good axle.

Now is where the secret trick comes in, the thing that makes the motor work. It is a secret trick because it is a small and subtle thing, and is very hard to see when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about motors may be puzzled until they examine it closely and find the secret.

Hold the coil at the edge of a table, so the coil is staight up and down (not flat on the table), and one of the free wire ends is lying flat on the table. With a sharp knife, remove the top half of the insulation from the free wire end. Be careful to leave the bottom half of the wire with the enamel insulation intact. The top half of the wire will be shiny bare copper, and the bottom half will be the color of the insulation. A quick sketch may help:


Do the same thing to the other free wire end, making sure that the shiny bare copper side is facing up on both wire ends.

The idea behind the trick is that the armature is going to rest on two supports made of bare wire. These supports will be attached to each end of the battery, so electricity can flow from one support into the armature and back through the other support to the battery. But this will only happen when the bare half of the wire is facing down, touching the supports. When the bare copper half is facing up, the insulated half is touching the supports, and no current can flow.

The next step is to make the axle supports. These are simple loops of wire that hold up the armature and allow it to spin. They are made of bare wire, since they will also act to get electricity to the armature.

Take a stiff piece of bare wire (copper or brass will work, as will a straightened paper clip) and bend it around a small nail to make a loop in the middle, as shown in the photo below. Do the same to another wire, so you have two supports.


The base for this first motor will be the battery holder. It makes a nice base because it is heavy when the battery is installed (so the motor won't wobble) and because it has convenient holes in the plastic where we can attach the bare wire armature supports.

Attach the support wires securely to the battery holder by winding the free ends several times through the small holes in the plastic at each end. Bend the support wires so the rings are just far enough apart for the armature to spin freely. Bend them apart a little and insert the armature into both rings, then bend them back so they are close to the coil, but not touching it.

Insert the battery into the holder. Place the magnet on top of the battery holder just underneath the coil. Make sure the coil can still spin freely, and that it just misses the magnet.

The finished motor looks like this:


Note that there is a strip of paper stuck in between the battery and the electrical contact in the holder. This is the on/off switch. Remove the paper to allow electricity to flow into the motor, and replace the paper when you want to stop the motor and save the battery.

Spin the armature gently to get the motor started. If it doesn't start, try spinning it in the other direction. The motor will only spin in one direction.

If the motor still doesn't start, carefully check all the electrical connections. Is the battery connected so one support touches the positive end of the battery, and the other touches the negative end? Is the bare copper half of the armature wire touching the bare support wires at the bottom, and only at the bottom? Is the armature freely spinning?

If all these things are correct, your little motor should be spinning around at a pretty fast rate. Try holding it upside down. The motor should spin in the opposite direction if the magnet is on top instead of on the bottom. Try turning the magnet upside down and see which direction the motor spins. If you want a motor that has the magnet on the side instead of the top or bottom, you can simply make a new armature, but this time lay the coil flat on the table when you scrape the insulation off of the top half of the free wire ends.
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